laut is one of the few brave bar establishments that opened during Singapore’s semi lockdown. Starting a business during the Covid-19 pandemic must have been nerve wrecking, but the team pressed on & resorted to deliveries during the turmoil. While the virus is still very much around, Phase 2 has finally allowed F&B brands to reopen for dine-in. For laut, it meant opening its doors for the very first time.
The newly opened restaurant/bar concept is hidden along Stanley Street within the Telok Ayer district. For first-timers, use Google Maps to navigate as laut’s entrance is discreet and you might easily miss it. laut derived its name from the Malay word for sea and indeed, its menu features an abundance of seafood. The food and tipples have a strong focus on Southeast Asian ingredients.
laut is the brainchild of Leon Tan, former head-bartender of NATIVE—a mainstay on Asia’s 50 Best Bars—and Frank Shen, life-long craft beer aficionado and co-owner of American Taproom. Most of their awe-inspiring gourmet creations are backed by beliefs deeply rooted in sustainability and respect for local produce. Do expect to find underrated and unknown ingredients such as fruit skins and other edible byproducts here.
Alcoholic Drinks at laut
The cocktails here transcend everything you know about mixology by leaps and bounds.
The good folks who have spent tireless hours experimenting lean towards fermentation-forward, sustainability-driven ideologies that are out of the box. Instead of relying solely on citrus fruits such as lemons or oranges to brighten up a drink, they utilise local ingredients (many of which they forage themselves); including interesting things such as fermented sweet potato and other vinegared components.
Below, we take a look at a few of the standout drinks that truly impressed us.
Grass
Taking its cue from the green juice that fitness fanatics can’t seem to get over, here’s one green grassy cocktail that’ll change the way your perception of organic green foods (in this case drinks).
The ultimate crowd-pleaser, Grass (S$21++) is a refreshing gin-based cocktail that comprises ginger flower, pickle brine, a house-made ferment (that consists of three different grass varietals) and rice foam. Fresh, crisp and underscored with a mild brininess to it, we can understand why it’s a hit. It’s straightforward, flavour-driven and simplicity at its best.
Bananas
Banana (S$21++) is the punchiest cocktail on laut’s menu with a well-rounded flavour profile. Contrary to textbook banana-flavoured beverages that just taste offensively artificial, this was anything but.
Keeping to its sustainable, zero-waste ethos, the flavour is derived from the peels of the banana rather than the fruit. The cocktail boasts a lightly smoked, molasses-like flavour to it courtesy of the aged Malaysian molasses that goes into it along with candlenut (a common ingredient used in traditional Nonya dishes) and coconut palm sugar. A good example to illustrate how this tastes is like a classic rum raisin but slightly more earthy.
Other noteworthy cocktails include Sugarcane, Soy, June Plum and Pineapple.
Lemongrass Bentong Ginger Pale Ale
Accented with the flavourful aromas of native ingredients, their deliciously crisp, Lemongrass Bentong Ginger Pale Ale (S$15++) was a pleasant surprise. Scented with the floral aroma of fresh lemongrass and gently spiced with Bentong Ginger, it gives a warm and malty finish. Easy to drink and crisp, we’d probably be able to knock back a dozen of these without much trouble.
Note: This is a limited release brew made in collaboration between laut and Pink Blossoms Brewery.
Small Plates at laut Singapore
Inspired by the rich diversity of culture and produce that Southeast Asia brings, eat your way at laut to better understand the cultures, heritage and diverse culinary landscape of our Southeast Asian forefathers.
The components and ingredients they use may seem simple, but through the genius of their team and modern-day sensibilities, they are transformed into bold, totally original creations that will no doubt impress.
Oyster Eggs
A deconstructed twist on the local hawker dish, “Orh Luak”, aka Oyster Omelette, the Oyster Eggs (S$11++) is a must-order. It features a layer of steamed egg custard served within an oyster shell, dotted with calamansi oil, chilli oil and starch balls to emulate the same sort of zing, spice and chewiness one would derive from the classic dish.
They source their oysters from a farm in Pulau Ubin and every other component is made entirely in-house.
Frogs
Having undergone several R&D rounds with regards to its name and presentation, Frogs (S$18++) is sure-fire way to captivate grenouille fans.
Intentionally modelled to look like lollipops, this one-bite wonder is reminiscent of zi char cereal prawns except texturally better in every way. It’s tenderer than chicken thigh, yet chewy enough to linger in the mouth a little longer prior to swallowing. The crispy, flaky cereal nuanced with curry leaves provides a delicious flavour to it. But it’s in the way that the frog is prepped, constituting to the overall mouthfeel, that really left us in awe.
Burnt Eggplant Dip
laut’s Burnt Eggplant Dip (S$11++) will turn even the most anti-eggplant advocates into believers.
A dish boasting complexity and depth, we thoroughly enjoyed the deep savouriness of the dip, accompanied by its smokiness. Prior to blitzing, the cooked eggplants are torched to bring out that second layer of smoke. To cut through the richness of the dip, they top it with a tangy tomato and onion relish. The papadums served alongside it are not made in-house, but they’re spiced in-house. Comprising a myriad of spices, it’s characterised by respectable and delightful level of heat.
Tuna
Striking pure luxe into the hearts of any who fancy a good sashimi cum ceviche-esque course minus the overly exorbitant price tag, their Tuna (S$15++) embodies all that is great about a fresh raw fish course.
Seared on all sides, the gorgeously red-hued tuna is sliced along the diagonal and presented elegantly, topped with a Thai-inspired green mango salad and a house-made chlorophyll sauce (Vietnamese coriander, green peppers, green chilli) to lend tang, freshness and a hint of spice.
Otah
laut’s Otah (S$15++) is inspired by the childhoods of both founders, who grew up in the east of Singapore. Otah served on toast was pretty much a breakfast staple and this sharing dish triggers a great sense of nostalgia.
The otah is made in-house using local fish and shrimp. To cut through the rich, spicy coconut, eat it with the complementing Asian slaw which is made of pickled onions, ginger flower coupled with a Nonya achar that lends crunch and a bright, fruity nuttiness to the sandwich. The toast is charred to a burnt crisp deliberately to impart a smoky flavour to the dish and the otah is firm but melts under the weight of each bite.
Crab Toast
The Crab Toast (S$18++) is a super-tasty rustic open-faced toast generously adorned with sweet flower crabmeat, soy-cured quail eggs, fresh yoghurt and cilantro oil. This hodgepodge of ingredients work really well with one another; it’s got crunch, tang, sweetness, tenderness, a sharp saltiness (courtesy of the cured eggs) and makes for a flavour-packed carnival in the mouth.
Sharing Plates
As far as sharing plates go, they only offer three varieties to choose from and we say order them all.
Squid Gado Gado
For starters, the Squid Gado (S$25++) is a textural masterpiece that’s punctuated with a sweetish nutty sauce that livens up the flavour of the squid.
Seared on all sides, the squid develops a lovely, subtle char on the outside. But inside it still retains a soft, tender, bordering-on-jammy texture that proves interesting. We’ve only ever had squid fully cooked to the point of being rubbery… So this was an exciting switch up! The Gado Gado sauce is made in-house and is reflective of Javanese cuisine through its rich yet aromatic profiles.
Prawn Raja
Lo and behold, the Prawn Raja (S$29++) is hands down, one of the tastiest interpretations of Thunder Tea Rice. Period. Harnessing ingredients familiar to the dish but sprucing it up with other culinary elements; this Italian risotto and Spanish paella hybrid is one that brims with richness and savoury decadence.
The king prawns are cooked beautifully, standing up well to the tasty jasmine rice that’s cooked in the style of risotto. Using a homemade butter infused with Vietnamese basil and Thai coriander, along with petai beans and century egg for additional textures.
laut Curry
The house signature laut Curry (S$33++) is a substantially portioned dish prepared similar to the traditional Indonesian rendang. It packs a fiery punch and is rich in creamed coconut, heady spices and fresh seafood that nicely complement the curry. The fish they use is largely dependent on what’s in season and the shellfish are sourced locally.
Desserts
The laut Pisang (S$11++) was an absolute dreamboat of a dessert. A straight-forward one-biter, these cockle-shaped parcels are constructed using tapioca before being deep-fried till crisp. But of course, its adorable and intricately crafted exterior only comes second to its filling—a sweet, indulgent, velvety banana purée.
The crusty, crumbly shell belonging to the Tart Limau (S$11++) is made fresh daily by Leon’s mother. Its filling features a house-made calamansi curd that’s tart and zingy, accentuated with sour plum to give it more tang. If you’ve had a few drinks prior, this citrusy dessert might just jumpstart your senses back to its default settings.
Address: 17 Stanley St, Singapore 068736
Opening Hours: 5PM – 10.30PM (Mon to Sat), Closed on Sundays
Contact: +65 8878 8018
Nearest MRT Station: Telok Ayer
Disclaimer: We were guests of laut, but all opinions remain our own.
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